Jack Allsopp

“Salam Labas”

The Medina is a culture shock like none other. It invites you in with urging curiosity that it musters from its narrow passageways and fascinating street shops. Either it be turning down a new alley to see what adventure awaits or stepping inside a shop that draws you in with mystery, the  Medina is a place of finding yourself. From what I have discovered, the way to find yourself in the Medina is to get lost. You must lose your sense of direction, which isn’t hard. Walk in and turn a few corners and you will find yourself down a new alleyway full of colors and vendors trying to sell their trinkets and jewelry.

Each street has its own unique look, some with fascinating street art and colors that line the walls and steps. One passage way you might find a couple of stray cats, each with their own doorway to snooze in, one will have men lined up sitting at tables outside a café, watching the passing people as they sip their mint tea or coffee. Sight is only half the experience as the smells consume you. My nostrils will be delighted by the smell of  sweet bread or a delicate spice, then turn the corner to be greeted by a strong smell of something very unpleasant. But what city is complete without that. I find that to only adds to the mystery and fascination of the Medina.

“Salam Labas,” left my uncertain mouth, hoping my pronunciation was correct. It means, “Hello, how are you?” It was my second time visiting the medina that day, and one of our group tasks was to say that phrase to a random local.  Entering the thick of the market, a man brushed by me and I spontaneously got his attention with that phrase. Why I picked him, I do not know, maybe it was his friendly face, or the look of experience in his short greying hair. After realizing through my accent that I was American he immediately was delighted to be spoken too and replied through a warm smile that he was fine, asking then how we were. I reached in for a handshake introducing myself as Jack and introduced my group of friends. To my surprise he spoke English at a nearly fluent level and introduced himself with a firm handshake. After realizing that his name it was bit hard to say in my American accent he told us to call him Christoph.

“What shops do you recommend?” Was the first question for my mind to create in the moment, not realizing what kind of adventure he was about to take us on. His eyes lit up and his smile grew bigger, then without hesitation he complied to show us. Following strangers is normally not something I do, along with most people, but risks are necessary for a great story. At a brisk pace he took off into the market, looking back to make sure we were still following. Into the labyrinth we went, taking turn after turn, stepping over cobblestone and sinking into the colors of the building. Blindly, we kept following, slowly now starting to rethink this journey as we went deeper into the Medina. After leading through countless turns and alleys, all the while reassuring us he was taking us to a hidden gem, we arrived at his destination, a beautiful staircase colored in with all the colors of the rainbow. Each color represented a different Moroccan city, he explained with pride. Right before the staircase, was this beautiful shop he lead us into. Vibrant dresses and rugs filled the walls up to the ceiling, every inch of the shop was used to show off merchandise. The shop was almost overwhelming, even just looking around my eyes could not stay still. But alas, we knew we needed to head back soon. After visiting the shop, he made it clear to us he was going to take us back to exactly where we found him, probably picking up on our uncertainty of now being lost. In the end, the reason he gained our trust was he didn’t even lead us to his shop, which he could have. When he lead us back to the spot we met him, we thanked him and much to our surprise, he walked into his own shop not far from where we stood. Feeling to need to show our appreciation we then turned back and asked to see his shop, he welcomed us graciously and then proceeded to give us advice about shopping in the Medina. We bought a little nick nack as a token of our thanks, after him giving us a discount. Just as we were leaving, I told him I would return to visit him because of his kindness and through a smile and a hug he told me he would thank Allah for bringing us to him at his next prayer session.

 

Christoph taught me what taking chances is all about. That a simple “Hello, how are you,” can lead you down a crazy adventure and to a local friend who will be overjoyed to show you around and have you come visit them. Getting lost in the Medina is the best way to explore its secrets, and in order to get lost, all you must do is take chances and make that leap. It all start with a simple “Salam.”